Giuseppe Vasi's Digression - Ariccia

Ariccia is very close to Albano, especially since 1854, when a long bridge across a ravine cut short the winding road which linked the two towns. The development of Ariccia is strictly associated with pope Alexander VII and his family, the Chigi, who in 1661 acquired this small fief from the Savelli.

Porta Romana, Porta Napoletana and a city building in the main square

Alexander VII asked Gian Lorenzo Bernini to redesign Ariccia to change the rural aspect of the newly acquired possession and to give it a very modern and urban appearance. The gates and the building shown above belong to this phase of the development of Ariccia.

Vulcanic valley near Ariccia and view from the end of the bridge
Ariccia stands over a bowl-shaped valley, the crater of an extinct volcano and it enjoys fine views towards the sea. The bridge built in the XIXth century, while responding to very practical needs has the disadvantage of bringing too many cars into the large square (Piazza di Corte) designed by Bernini.

Santa Maria dell'Annunciazione
In 1657-62 Bernini had worked at the restoration of the Pantheon in particular of its portico which had been in part occupied by small houses and in general he cleared the ancient building of all the medieval additions which hid its original shape. In S. Maria dell'Annunciazione he had in mind the Pantheon and he emphasized its cylindrical shape by adding two lateral porches which embrace the church.

Bell tower and cantoria
Bernini had added to the Pantheon two small bell towers above the portico, but for the Pantheon he designed in Ariccia he chose a less intrusive location and built them on the back of the apse. The interior of the church has a rich stucco decoration based on just two colours: white and gold.

Palazzo Chigi
Palazzo Chigi is not a small casino meant for a short summer retreat, but an imposing palace larger than the palaces the Chigi had in Rome in Piazza Colonna and in Piazza SS. Apostoli (now Palazzo Odescalchi). It belonged to the Chigi family until 1988.

Fountain in the main square and S. Maria di Galloro
Two fountains embellish the square, both a reminder of Alexander VII and his heraldic symbols: six mountains and a star.
Bernini was asked by Alexander VII to redesign a sanctuary (S. Maria di Galloro) outside Ariccia on the road to Genzano.

Excerpts from Giuseppe Vasi 1761 Itinerary related to this page:

La Ariccia castello antichissimo Due miglia dopo Albano, camminando a sinistra della via Appia, si vede situato sopra uno scoglio questo fortissimo castello, secondo che si legge eretto 500. anni prima della guerra di Troja da Archiloo Siculo, e chiamollo Ermina. Dipoi essendovi posta da Oreste la statua di Diana Scitica, la quale portata seco aveva da Tauricia, fu il castello detto Arizia, e portò il vanto di essere stato patria di Accia madre di Ottaviano Augusto, e di Turno Erodino: ma poi ebbe lo scorno di essere sepoltura dell'infame Simon Mago, ivi condotto da' suoi parziali dopo la vergognosa caduta in Roma, per curarlo delle sue ferite, e poi trasportarlo nella Giudea; ma il disgraziato vi morì di spasimo. Ora è feudo della famiglia Ghigi, e vi è di particolare il magnifico palazzo, e la chiesa fatta da Alessandro VII. col disegno del Cav. Bernini, ornata di ottime pitture, fra le quali evvi l'Assunzione della ss. Vergine fatta a fresco nella tribuna dal Borgognone. Quindi dopo un miglio siegue il monastero colla magnifica chiesa di s. Maria di Galloro fatta dal medesimo Alessandro col monastero per i monaci di Vallombrosa.

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