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Basilica di S. Sebastiano (part two) (Book 3) (Day 5) (View C11)

In this page:
Circo di Caracalla (Circo di Romolo o Massenzio)
S. Urbano
Ninfeo di Egeria
Sepolcro di Annia Regillia
Valle della Caffarella
SS. Nunziata

Circo di Caracalla

Circus of Caracalla

Until 1825 the large circus near the tomb of Cecilia Metella was called circus of Caracalla owing to a statue of the emperor found nearby. In line with an inscription found by Nibby in 1825, it is now called circus  of Maxentius or of Romulus and we know that it was erected by Maxentius in 309 and dedicated to his son Romulus (d. 307). Maxentius moved here an obelisk erected by the emperor Domitian in Campo Marzio. The obelisk was brought back to Rome by Bernini to top the statue of the Four Rivers in  Piazza Navona.  The detail on the right lower corner shows the use of pottery to lighten the vaults.
You can see more of Via Appia in my pages about Via Appia from Cecilia Metella to Torre in Selci and Via Appia from Torre in Selci to Frattocchie.

S. Urbano

Sant'Urbano

Off Via Appia Pignatelli, which links Via Appia Antica with Via Appia Nuova, a large restaurant which specialises in wedding parties offers in the package the little church of S. Urbano. It was originally a temple belonging to the villa of Herodes Atticus and was then converted into a little church. In 1634 Urbanus VIII restored it and the nice four columns of the pronaos were incorporated into the walls.

Ninfeo di Egeria

Grotto of Ninfa Egeria

The area near S. Urbano was for many centuries associated with the second king of Rome, Numa Pompilio. Here were located the sacred wood and the grotto where he used to meet with the nymph Egeria, his patroness and adviser. The grotto is actually an artificial cave, once adorned with statues and used as a summer resort for the large suburban villa of Herodes Atticus and then incorporated in the palace of Maxentius: in the XVIIIth century a visit to the grotto was a must for the educated traveller: Goethe himself sketched it.
Read Lord Byron's verses dedicated to this site.
In the right lower corner the ruins of a nearby cistern.

Sepolcro di Annia Regillia

Sepolcro di Annia Regillia

This elegant brickwork temple (IInd century A.D.) was thought to be the temple of the Deus Rediculus, but it is now associated with a tomb erected by Herodes Atticus in honour of his wife Annia Regillia (whom he was suspected to have put to death).  Its rich decoration has a baroque flavour. For centuries it was used as a hay-loft, as shown in this 1789 drawing by Carlo Labruzzi.

Sepolcro di Annia Regillia (print)

Valle della Caffarella

S. Urbano, Ninfeo di Egeria and Sepolcro di Anna Regillia are all located in a vast agricultural estate between Via Appia Pignatelli and Via Appia Nuova which is known as Valle della Caffarella (a reference to Cardinal Scipione Borghese Caffarelli). The estate was acquired by the Torlonia in the XIXth century. In the 1990s it was bought in part by the municipality and opened to the public.

Views

The most elevated points of the park offer views which are unspoiled by modern buildings. The images above show (left) Cecilia Metella and S. Urbano; (right) the dome of S. Pietro and Porta S. Sebastiano.

The farm

The main farm in the park is a sort of little fortress with a watch tower. Sunday joggers have to find their way through flocks of sheep.

The farm

Torre Valca is the current name of a medieval tower built by the Caetani to protect their fortress next to Cecilia Metella. The building which is located on a little stream (river Aimone) was called Valca after gualchiera (fulling-mill) a process of the textile industry for which it was used in more recent times. A Roman building near Torre Valca is known as Colombario (dovecot) Costantiniano but it is a tomb of the same period of Sepolcro di Annia Regillia.

SS. Nunziata

SS. Nunziata

The most pious pilgrims could expand their visit of the seven churches by reaching from S. Sebastiano the monastery of S. Paolo alle Tre Fontane or Santuario del Divino Amore. A narrow lane (via di S. Sebastiano) leads to these rather remote locations. The pilgrims could find a little rest in the chapel of SS. Annunziata, which still retains the inscription celebrating its restoration by Urbanus VIII.
 

You can see more of Via Appia in my pages about Via Appia from Cecilia Metella to Torre in Selci and Via Appia from Torre in Selci to Frattocchie.

Excerpts from Giuseppe Vasi 1761 Itinerary related to this page:


Circo di Caracalla
Rimane solamente di questo Circo, che da alcuni viene stimato per opera di Gallieno, un masso di materia laterizia, che era l’ingresso principale, ed il piantato d'intorno al Circo, in mezzo del quale fu ritrovato l'obelisco egizio, che ora si vede sul nobilissimo fonte da piazza Navona. Non molto lungi si vede, ancora la
Chiesa di s. Urbano alla Caffarella
Fra le molte rovine, che si vedono in queste campagne, sono notabili quelle di un tempio creduto di Bacco, posto in un sito alto nella tenuta della Caffarella, che sino al Pontificato di Urb. VIII. stette coperto di spine, e siepi. E' questo fatto di mattoni, ed ha un portico con colonne marmoree scannellate: di sotto poi vi è l'oratorio ove s. Urbano catechizzava, e battezzava i nuovi fedeli. Nel basso di questo colle si crede essere stata la celebre Fonte di Egeria e delle Camene. Appresso al fonte era il bosco, e la spelonca, in cui Numa soleva segretamente trattenersi per dare a credere d'aver notturni congressi con quella Dea, e però i Sacerdoti vi andavano per sagrificarvi alla Fede.
Chiesa della ss. Nunziata
Non molto discosto siede questa chiesa, presso cui ne' primi tempi del cristianesimo fu eretto un ospizio per li poveri pellegrini, che venivano in Roma a visitare i sagri Limini, acciocchè stessero lontani da' Gentili. Nell'an. 1270. essendo rinnovata, e consagrata la chiesa, fu poi conceduta alla Compagnia del Confalone. Quindi camminando per quelle campane inzuppate del sangue di tanti ss. Martiri, cioè di quei Cristiani, che lavorarono nelle terme Diocleziane, i quali in ricompensa, e per odio della santa Fede furono fatti morire, detto perciò da varj Scrittori Campus trucidatorum.

Return to 
part one (S. Sebastiano and Cecilia Metella).

Next plate in Book 3: Basilica di S. Maria in Trastevere
Next step in Day 5 itinerary: Chiesa di S. Paolo alle tre fontane

Go to    or to  Book 3 or to my Home Page on Baroque Rome or to my Home Page on Rome in the footsteps of an XVIIIth century traveller.


All images © 1999 - 2003 by Roberto Piperno. Write to romapip@quipo.it