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Porta Maggiore (Book 1) (Map A3) (Day 2) (Rione Monti)

In this page:
The plate by Giuseppe Vasi
Today's view
Tomb of Marcus Virgilius Eurysaces
Acqua Claudia
The walls between Porta Maggiore e Porta S. Giovanni (including Anfiteatro Castrense)

The Plate (No. 7)

Porta Maggiore

The plate shows the fortification built by the Colonna family in the middle ages around the gate which was originally a sort of triumphal arch built by Emperor Claudius in 52 A.D. to celebrate the entrance into Rome of two aqueducts the Aqua Claudia and the Anio Novus. Emperor Aurelianus incorporated the arch and a section of the aqueducts into the new walls. The gate was actually two gates in the sense that two roads diverged hence, Via Labicana and Via Prenestina. The view is taken from the green dot in the small 1748 map here below. In the description below the plate Vasi made reference to: 1) Aqueducts of Claudius; 2) Via Labicana. The small map shows also: 3) Porta Maggiore; 4) Anfiteatro Castrense.

Small ViewSmall View

Today

The Gate today

The original aqueduct monument has been restored in full and all medieval additions destroyed. Traffic goes through lateral breaches in the walls. However the upper part of the gate (image below), built by the emperors Arcadius and Onorius at the beginning of the Vth century, was relocated to the left side of Porta Maggiore. You may wish to follow the steps of Ferdinand Gregorovius who started from here his walks in the Roman countryside.

The old gate


The Baker's Tomb

The Baker Tomb

The plate shows between the two entrances a small building. The restoration has isolated a tomb, the tomb of the baker Marcus Virgilius Eurysaces. He was so proud of being a baker that he celebrated bakery in his tomb. It is decorated in imitation of grain-measures and stock-holes and the reliefs represent grinding, baking and other parts of his trade.

Acqua Claudia

Acqua Claudia

The arches of the aqueduct can be seen at many points between Porta Maggiore and the Palatine. The first two pictures above relate to the section between Porta Maggiore and S. Giovanni. The third one was taken on the Palatine. You can see more of this aqueduct while making a walk to Porta Furba.

The Walls between Porta Maggiore and Porta S. Giovanni

Amphiteatrum Castrense

The only interesting site of this part of the walls is the Amphiteatrum Castrense an oval brick building used for training purposes by the Roman army and which was incorporated into the walls. The decorations too are made of brick.

Excerpts from Giuseppe Vasi 1761 Itinerary related to this page:


Porta Maggiore
Fu questa piuttosto castello dell'acqua Claudia, che porta della Città, mentre i condotti di quella si vedono ancor oggi passare sopra di essa. Fu chiamata maggiore forse dal magnifico arco formato di grossi travertini, sopra cui sono tre lunghe iscrizioni; una di Vespasiano, l'altra di Tito, e la terza di Onorio, dimostranti il risarcimento fatto all'acquedotto dell'acqua Claudia. Due miglia lungi da quella si trovano le rovine della chiesa de' ss. Pietro, e Marcellino, eretta dal Pio Costantino, per dare sepoltura a s. Elena sua madre, e dicevasi inter duos lauros: oggi però, per la sua forma e rovina, dicesi Torpignattara, e perchè si conservasse la memoria de' detti Santi, e del celebre cimiterio riferito dalli Scrittori Ecclesiastici, vi fu eretta una piccola cappella, di cui ha cura il Capitolo Lateranense, e per ciò vi tiene un prete curato.
Teatro Castrense
Camminando poi appresso le mura, poco dopo la divisata porta di s. Giovanni, evvi una piccola cappelletta in cui si fa memoria di s. Margherita, e pochi passi dopo si vede dalla parte esterna delle medesime mura il teatro Castrense fatto di puri mattoni.


Next plate in Book 1: Porta S. Giovanni
Next step in Day 2 itinerary: Tempio di Minerva Medica
Next step in your tour of Rione Monti: Chiesa di S. Croce in Gerusalemme



Go to or to Book 1 or to The Coats of Arms of the Popes or to My Home Page on Baroque Rome or to My Home Page on Rome in the footsteps of an XVIIIth century traveller




All images © 1999 - 2002 by Roberto Piperno. Write to romapip@quipo.it