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S. Grisogono (Book 6) (Map C3) (Day 6) (View D10) (Rione Trastevere)

In this page:
 The plate by Giuseppe Vasi
 Today's view
 S. Grisogono
 S. Bonosa (and S. Eligio dei Sellai)
 S. Agata in Trastevere e Torre degli Anguillara
 Nuova Fabbrica del Tabacco

The Plate (No. 119)

S. Grisogono

S. Grisogono (today S. Crisogono) was the first major church of Trastevere for those who crossed the river at Ponte Cestio and then walked along Via della Lungaretta, the main street of Trastevere. The view is taken from the green dot in the small 1748 map here below. In the description below the plate Vasi made reference to: 1) S. Grisogono; 2) Street leading to S. Maria dell'Orto; 3) Oratorio della Confraternita del SS. Sacramento. The small map shows also 4) S. Bonosa; 5) S. Agata in Trastevere; 6) Torre degli Anguillara; 7) Nuova Fabbrica del Tabacco.

Small ViewSmall View

Today

The view today

The opening of Ponte Garibaldi and of Viale del Re (today Viale Trastevere) has thrown the church right into the middle of today's life.

S. Grisogono

S. Grisogono side entrance

The church goes back to the XIIth century and makes use of some Roman columns, but it was widely restored in 1624 by Giovan Battista Soria for Cardinal Scipione Borghese, thus the eagles and dragons of the Borghese are everywhere, even in the capitals of the nice side entrance. S. Crisogono has a fine XIIIth century cosmatesque pavement.

S. Bonosa

S. Bonosa

The red spot marked with a 4 in the top map shows the site of the church dedicated to S. Bonosa. The need to provide a better link between Trastevere and the rest of the city led to the building of a new bridge (Ponte Garibaldi). The church was pulled down in 1888. A couple of columns in the wall of a house next to the former site of the church belong to a medieval portico. The red spot marked with a 3 shows the site of the oratory which was opposite S. Crisogono. The red spot near the river shows the location of S. Eligio dei Sellai (farriers), a church which was pulled down in 1902.

S. Agata in Trastevere e Torre degli Anguillara

S. Agata and Torre degli Anguillara

S. Agata was built in the XVIIth century on the site of an XIth century church having the same name. The fašade (1712) by Giacomo Onorato Recalcati has several references to works by Francesco Borromini (in particular the role given to stucco decorations).
You may wish to attend the Procession of Madonna de Noantri which moves from S. Agata and reaches S. Crisogono.
The Anguillara, named after a fief they had near Bracciano, were a very prominent family in the XIVth and XVth centuries, but subsequently they lost their importance. They had their house-fortress in Trastevere. In the XIXth century the buildings were used as workshops for enamels and painted glasses. Towards the end of the XIXth century the houses were largely modified and they were given an early Renaissance appearance and only the tower retained its medieval looks.

Nuova Fabbrica del Tabacco

Fabbrica del Tabacco

This imposing building with a colonnade above a high base has a vague resemblance to the Colonnade du Louvre in Paris. The Latin inscription adds to its importance: PIUS IX P. (ontifex) M. (aximus) OFFICINAM NICOTIANIS FOLIIS ELABORANDIS A SOLO EXTRUXIT ANNO MDCCCLXIII.
It means that the building was a tobacco factory (Nicotianis foliis is a reference to the tobacco leaves introduced in Europe by the French diplomat Jean Nicot). In 1863 Pius IX moved to this site the tobacco factory which had been located near S. Maria dei Sette Dolori. The fountain at the centre of the square was built in the same period.

Excerpts from Giuseppe Vasi 1761 Itinerary related to this page:


Chiesa di s. Agata in Trastevere
Da Gregorio II. fu eretta quella chiesa l'anno 731. nella casa di sua madre, ed appresso fecevi un monastero di monache, che vi stettero per alcuni secoli; ma passate queste altrove, vi succederono alcuni Preti secolari; indi eretta la Congregazione de' Preti della dottrina Cristiana, da Gregorio XIII. fu ad essi conceduta questa chiesa col monastero annesso. Quasi incontro evvi la
Chiesa e Convento di s. Grisogono
PerchŔ non si sa di qual tempo sia la fondazione di questa magnifica chiesa, si crede esser una di quelle edificate da' Fedeli in tempo di Costantino Magno, tantopi¨, che le colonne della nave di mezzo mostrano essere state di vari tempj de' Gentili, perchŔ di granito egizio, e ineguali di proporzione; e fu dedicata in onore di s. Stefano, di s. Lorenzo, e di s. Grisogono. Da Gregorio III. fu notabilmente ristaurata: aggiungendovi un monastero per li monaci venuti dall'Oriente in tempo della persecuzione delle sagre Immagini; ed Ŕ notabile, che fra questi visse Stefano IV. mentre era giovine. Dopo i monaci vi succederono i canonici di s. Salvatore, e nell' anno 1480. i frati Carmelitani della congregazione di Mantova. Il Card. Gio. de Crema, essendone titolare, rinnov˛ la chiesa, e poi il Card. Scipione Borghese la orn˛ con un prezioso ciborio, e col superbo soffitto dorato, in cui si vede il santo Titolare dipinto dal Guercino da Cento. Incontro alla porta maggiore evvi l'oratorio della confraternita del Carmine eretto nell'an. 1543. sotto Paolo III. per associare il ss. Sacramento agl'Infermi. Indi camminando a destra, si trova nel vicolo la
Chiesa di s. Bonosa
Piccola ma antica Ŕ questa chiesa eretta, come si crede, nella casa della santa Titolare. Nell'anno 1480. volendosi rifare l'altare maggiore, fu trovato il corpo della Santa insieme con altre reliquie; ottenuta poi dall'universitÓ de' Calzolari, vi aggiunse il titolo de santi Crispino, e Crispiniano martiri.

Next plate in Book 6: S. Giacomo a Scossacavalli

Next step in Day 6 itinerary: Ponte Sisto

Go to    or to  Book 6 or to my Home Page on Baroque Rome or to my Home Page on Rome in the footsteps of an XVIIIth century traveller.


All images © 1999 - 2003 by Roberto Piperno. Write to romapip@quipo.it