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Date | Location | Notes or quotations |
November 1, 1786 | Porta del Popolo | Goethe arrived in Rome through it. |
November 3, 1786 | Palazzo del Quirinale | "The square in front of the palazzo, though irregular in shape, is both grand and graceful. There I sat eyes on the two Colossi. To grasp them is beyond the power of the eye or the mind." |
November 7, 1786 | Palazzo del Belvedere | Visit to Raphael's Loggia. Goethe went several times to the Sixtine Chapel during both his stays. |
November 8, 1786 | Palazzo Rondanini | Goethe lived in a building opposite this palace. |
November 9, 1786 | Piazza della Rotonda (Pantheon) Basilica di S. Pietro |
"The Pantheon, so great within and without, has overwhelmed me with admiration. St Peter's has made me realize that Art, like Nature, can abolish all standards of measurement." |
November 10, 1786 | Piramide di Caio Cestio Rovine del Palatino |
"..the ruins of the imperial palaces stand like rocks. It is impossible to convey a proper idea of such things." |
November 11, 1786 | Ninfa Egeria e Circo di Caracalla Tomba di Cecilia Metella Via Appia Antica Piazza del Colosseo |
"..the tomb of Metella made me realize for the first time what solid masonry means. ..we came to the Colosseum at twilight. Once one has seen it, everything else seems small. It is so huge that the mind cannot retain its image; one remembers it as smaller than it is, so that every time one returns to it, one is astounded by its size. |
November 17, 1786 | S. Andrea della Valle Palazzo Farnese |
- |
November 18, 1786 | Farnesina S. Pietro in Montorio Domus Aurea |
- |
November 22, 1786 | Piazza S. Pietro Basilica di S. Pietro S. Cecilia |
Ascent of St Peter's Dome. |
November 28, 1786 | Villa Doria Pamphilj | Goethe went there after a second visit to Raphael's Loggia. |
November 29, 1786 | Villa Mellini Villa Madama |
- |
December 25, 1786 | Basilica di S. Pietro | Goethe attended mass in St Peter's |
January 6, 1787 | Palazzo di Propaganda Fide | - |
January 17, 1787 | Palazzo Giustiniani | - |
January 18, 1787 | S. Antonio Abate | "The church stands on a square which is so large that, normally, it looks empty, but today it is full of life. Horses and mules, their manes and tails gorgeously braided with ribbons, are led up to a small chapel, detached from the church proper, and a priest, armed with an enormous brush, sprinkles them with holy water from tubs and buckets in front of him. He does this generously, vigorously and even facetiously so as to excite them... Donkeys and horned cattle also get their modest share of blessing." |
January 19, 1787 | Palazzi di Campidoglio | - |
January 20, 1787 | Spedale di S. Spirito in Sassia | - |
January 25, 1787 | SS. Trinità de' Monti | - |
February 16, 1787 | S. Onofrio | - |
February 19, 1787 | Villa Medici | Goethe left Rome on February 22, 1787. He spent in Naples and Sicily the next four months. |
Second Stay
(June 1787 - April 1788)
June 27, 1787 |
Palazzo Corsini | - |
June 29, 1787 |
Castel S. Angelo | - |
July 5, 1787 |
Fontana dell'Acqua Acetosa | - |
July 9, 1787 |
S. Maria di Aracoeli | - |
July 15, 1787 |
Farnesina | - |
July 16, 1787 |
Mausoleo d'Augusto | - |
July 22, 1787 |
Palazzo Barberini | - |
July 23, 1787 |
Colonna Trajana | "In the evening I climbed the column of Trajan. Seen from that height and at sunset, the Colosseum, with the Capitol close by, the Palatine behind and the city all around, it was a superb sight." |
July 24, 1787 |
Villa Patrizi Colonna Antonina |
- |
July 25, 1787 |
Palazzo Piombino | - |
July 29, 1787 |
Palazzo Rondanini | - |
August 1, 1787 |
SS. Trinità de' Monti | - |
August 18, 1787 |
Fontana dell'Acqua Acetosa
Campidoglio (from the Forum) Villa Aldobrandini |
- |
August 28, 1787 |
Accademia di Francia | - |
September 3, 1787 |
Obelisco di Augusta | - |
September 1787 (summary) |
Giardini del Palatino
Piazza di Montecitorio |
- |
November 1787 (summary) |
Porto di Ripetta | Goethe spent several weeks in Frascati and Castel Gandolfo |
December 1787 (summary) |
S. Paolo alle Tre Fontane
Circo di Caracalla Terme di Caracalla (Antoniniane) Acqua Paola and S. Pietro in Montorio S. Maria della Pace Basilica di S. Pietro Villa Borghese |
(Acqua Paola)"The lovers of architecture among us extolled the happy thought which had provided this water with a free, triumphal entry open to all. The columns, arches, cornices and pediments reminded us of those sumptuous arches through which, in times past, returning conquerors used to enter in triumph. In this case, it is the most peaceful of benefactors that enters with a like power and is received with immediate gratitude and admiration for its long and strenuous march." |
History of S. Filippo Neri |
S. Onofrio S. Girolamo della Carità S. Maria in Vallicella (Chiesa Nuova) Piazza Navona Terme di Caracalla (Antoniniane) |
- |
Accademia dell'Arcadia |
Bosco Parrasio | "... in 1690 a number of far-sighted and determined men banded together to discuss the possibilities of a reform (of poetry). In order not to draw attention to their meetings and provoke a counter-reaction, they used to assemble out of doors in those secluded gardens, of which so many can be found within the walls of Rome itself. There, close to Nature and breathing the fresh air, they could divine the primordial spirit of poetry. (..) Perhaps one of them exclaimed in rapture: "Here is our Arcadia", thus giving an apt name to a society of this idyllic character." |
Description of the Roman Carnival |
Piazza del Popolo Piazza di Venezia Palazzo di Venezia Palazzo Ruspoli S. Carlo al Corso Piazza Colonna Obelisco della Trinità de' Monti Accademia di Francia Via del Babuino, Piazza di Spagna e Teatro d'Alibert Teatro Argentina Teatro Capranica Teatro Valle Teatro Tordinona Teatro Pace |
"The Roman Carnival is not really a festival given for the people but one the people give themselves... unlike the religious festivals in Rome, the Carnival does not dazzle the eye:
there are no fireworks, no illuminations, no brilliant processions. All that happens is that,
at a given signal, everyone has leave to be as mad and foolish as he likes, and almost everything,
except fisticuffs and stabbing, is permissible. The difference between the social orders seems to be abolished for the time being; everyone accosts everyone else, all good-naturedly accept whatever happens to them, and the insolence and licence of the feast is balanced only by the universal good humour. During this time, even to this day, the Roman rejoices because, though it postponed the festival of the Saturnalia with its liberties for a few weeks, the birth of Christ did not succeed in abolishing it." |
February 1788 (summary) |
Piazza di Venezia
Palazzo di Campidoglio Arco di Settimio Severo Campo Vaccino e Arco di Tito Tempio di Minerva Tempio della Pace |
- |
March 1, 1788 |
Galleria Borghese | - | March 7, 1788 |
Campidoglio S. Carlo al Corso Accademia di S. Luca Basilica di S. Pietro |
- |
March 14, 1788 |
Casina di Raffaello (Villa Borghese) Villa Albani |
- |
March 1788 (summary) |
Basilica di S. Pietro
S. Maria Maggiore S. Lorenzo fuori le Mura S. Sebastiano S. Giovanni in Laterano S. Croce in Gerusalemme S. Paolo fuori le Mura Porta S. Paolo Villa Mattei |
The list of the seven basilicas is part of a description of the Holy Week's rites. |
April 11, 1788 |
Accademia di Francia | - |
April 1788 (summary) |
Cloaca Massima
Catacombe di S. Sebastiano Accademia di S. Luca Porto di Ripetta |
- | April 1788 (farewell to Rome) |
Campidoglio
Arco di Settimio Severo Colosseo |
"My farewell to Rome was heralded in a particularly solemn manner: for three consecutive
nights a full moon stood in a cloudless sky, diffusing its magic over the immense city, and more than ever before,
I felt myself transported into another simpler and greater world. At the end of each day, spent in distractions mingled with sadness, I took a walk with a few friends, and on one evening I went out quite alone. After having wandered along the Corso - perhaps for the last time - I walked up to the Capitol, which rose like an enchanted palace in the desert. The statue of Marcus Aurelius reminded me of the Commendatore in Don Giovanni, for it seemed to be intimating to the wanderer that he was venturing upon something unusual. Nevertheless I walked down by the stairs at the back. There I was suddenly confronted by the dark triumphal arch of Septimius Severus, which cast a still darker shadow. In the solitude of the Via Sacra the well-known objects seemed alien and ghost-like. But when I approached the grand ruins of the Colosseum and looked through the gate into the interior, I must frankly confess that a shudder ran through me, and I quickly returned home." |
Johann Wolfgang von Goethe (1749-1832) O wie fühl ich in Rom mich so froh! gedenk
ich der Zeiten, |